Naples (Napoli)

Along with the Sex, Law, and Politics course I mentioned in my last blog, I am also taking a course in Italian Life and Culture this summer. Last weeks Italian Life and Culture lecture focused on the mafia (mafiosi) and their influence over modern Italy. You cannot talk about the mafia without bringing up the Camorra that runs Naples. Likewise, you can't bring up Naples without mentioning the strong division between the North and the South in Italy. Due to some coincidental planning, 3 friends and I visited Naples last weekend and, with the information from last weeks lecture still fresh in our minds, were able to see first-hand what we had just discussed in class.

The Spanish Quarters

Naples has always been high on my list of Italian cities to visit- mainly because it is the birthplace of pizza, but also because it is known for being the epitome of stereotypical Italian culture. Right before going to Naples I was warned about several things: that it was dirty and there would be trash everywhere, that people from the South are less civilized than those from the North (this came straight from a Florentine's mouth), that kind locals will warn strangers to keep their eyes open by pulling down on their lower eyelids, that the mafia runs the city, and that the food is amazing. With the exception of the rumor that Southerners are less civilized, all of those statements are true.

It gets much worse than this, trust me.

Naples really is dirtier than Florence, and it is a glorified dump if you compare it to a pristine Northern city like Verona. Many of the buildings are warn and walls are decorated with graffiti. There are piles of trash along the streets and, as we learned in class, this is because the mafia runs the city and refuses to pay for proper waste management. While we were wandering up allies in the Spanish Quarters we stopped into a little shop. The older gentleman that worked there was so kind to us, much kinder than most people I have encountered in Florence, and I got so excited when he made the “keep your eyes wide open” gesture I had been warned about. He also warned us to protect our belongings as best we can and to always keep close to each other. For all of the warning we got, I must say that I never once felt threatened while wandering the city.

Napoli surprises you with hidden gems like this.

Even with the obvious trash issue, the city is still beautiful. Napoli is a city alive with colors and has some amazing architecture. One of my favorites was the 100-year-old Victorian shopping mall made of iron and glass called Galleria Umberto. Naples has so much to offer culturally, educationally, and historically but my favorite part about the city was the food! We ate Neapolitan pastries at an 1860s style cafe and ate some of the most amazing pizza at the pizzeria where the movie “Eat. Pray. Love.” was filmed. The pizzeria only offered two options of pizza, marinara or margherita. I had a margherita pizza and a Coke and was in taste bud heaven. 

I hardly ever drink soda, but there is something about a Coke and pizza that makes me feel right at home!

Antica Pizzeria da Michele has been around since late 1800s! Can you believe it?